Mutiny on the Ozbus in Iran‏

Internet access has been had to get hold of and I am aware (from the texts I have been receiving) that a number of people read the not so great article about ‘mutiny on the Ozbus’ on Monday. To reassure everyone, there is no real drama. Yes, we were all a bit peed off. The bus (see email below which was written before the article, just not sent) was breaking down every five minutes, we got stuck in Tehran waiting for a replacement bus. Lucky for us, Tehran was a really nice place and we were up and running again in half a day. The breakdown and need of a replacement bus actually raised spirits for this is where the tour ends and the adventure really beings.

Iran itself has been surprising. The first night was awful. The impression we had truly terrible, being turned away from places for being Western, people trying to pull us into cars, it all made us just want to be out of here. Three days in and things had vastly improved. We spent the break down day in Tehran where we spent ages in a bank trying to change money – the Iranian banking system is not connected to the rest of the world, so everything is done in cash. It was like being transported back fifty years as we watched the way everyone queued inside the bank, waiting for their number to be called and giving or receiving large amounts of cash. The biggest relief was seeing a woman smile. The majority of workers in the bank were women and they all found us Westerners hilarious as we stood not sure what to do to exchange our cash. The people were normal, they had a sense of humour, they were happy and that was important.

From Tehran we moved on the Estafan where we visited the Grand Bazaar and fell in love with the small city. The people there were friendly, although the respect for women is not what it should be, they would definitely make an effort. We were welcomed into shops, offered tea, taught about other cities in Iran and about the history of the country. We were invited to the homes of some of the Iranians (something we later found out was illegal) and genuinely felt their warmth and friendliness. These are the educated people, people who want the country to change its strict Islamic laws. It was at this point we all thought we were wrong about Iran and the people, that was until today.

Having travelled through a number of cities and small villages we parked up in Kerman. Having been warned we will be entering unsafe, rebel territory tomorrow we all decided that today we would look around this town in small groups, without our tour guide. What we saw was shocking. The poverty strikes you immediately, a boy of about fifteen who was severely disabled with no feet (how he lost them we do not know) crawled through the markets, pushing an empty bowl and moaning, clearly begging for food. There was nothing we could do to help. It was too risky to reach for your purse to give him anything and we were forced to walk on by with the worst guilty feeling I think I will ever experience.

After this a decision was made to go straight back to the hotel for the rest of the day and night as none of us wanted to experience these terrible sights anymore. Luckily we were in a mixed group, had no problem getting a taxi and arrived back safely. Unforunately for others in the group things were not so easy. Four girls agreed a price with a driver, got in his cab and thankfully got back to the hotel. On leaving the cab the driver demanded four times the amount he had agreed, was aggressive and would not take no for an answer. Luckily a man employed by the hotel argued their case. As women they would not be taken seriously.

With only 2 nights left in Iran, I relaxed slightly thinking I had seen the worst of the country; again I was wrong. From Kerman to Bam we were informed a tourist had gone missing in Bam and we were to have a military escort into Bam and were on lock down in the hotel. Guards with big guns stood by the doors, watching our every move and ensuring not only did anyone get in, but we did not get out.

The countries sexist rule was magnified as the men were allowed to go swimming and generally do what ever they liked. Menus in restaurants were handed to men only, change was given to man regardless of who paid and any conversation or explanation was directed towards the men. Although annoyed the women in the group remained calm and sat in reception to play a quiet game of cards. The police arrived to tell the women to stop playing cards and to ensure any female smokers extinguished their cigarettes. Women clearly are not allowed to do anything but sit and look pretty (or as pretty as you can with a head scarf, no make-up and clothes covering from your neck to your ankles)!

The following day we were not expecting a lot, a long drive to Zahedan, stay in a hotel and then an early morning to get to the Iran/Pakistan border. Our military escort accompanied us the whole way but we still had to make stops at a number of police checks. It was at one of these police checks that the most surprising and, had things gone another way, most disastrous thing happened. Our driver, who is Kurdish, and up to now had been reasonably friendly started to argue with our tour leaders. He then went to the police and told them the women on the bus were not wearing head scarves the whole time (this is true but the police agreed that the vehicle is classed as private space and we therefore do not have to), that the men all had big tattoos which is blasphemous and that we were all having sex on the bus (I wish)! Luckily the police recognised the bus driver was a fruit loop and let us carry on our journey. No tip for him then!!

The overall impression of Iran is mixed. Big towns are great, small cities are awful. Women here are clearly degraded and inferior. Without the company of some of the strong men (strong in character as well as build) I would not feel safe here. I am glad to have experienced it but will also be glad to leave. Bring on Pakistan!